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Country hoping for a metamorphosis

SELMA, Ala.—Graceful. That’s the first word I’d use to describe Selma, an old Alabama River town with glorious front porches, slow-talking intellectuals with drawls and, oh, yes, a fascination with butterflies.

That’s right, butterflies. Selma is the Butterfly Capital of Alabama, a 1982 designation it takes seriously. I’ve been in town for 20 minutes and already have seen several 5-foot-high butterfly sculptures and been presented with a bracelet with a butterfly charm. I’ve even met the gracious Madame Butterfly, Mrs. C.N. Breeding, proud instigator of the project.

Mos...
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