For many American schoolchildren, school lunches are nothing to write home about. They prefer to bring their meals from home or, if older and allowed to do so by school policy, eat lunch off campus.

But for some, the nourishment provided by the school lunchroom can be the difference between a full stomach or going hungry all day.

Students from lower-income or poor families have to make do as they can. Food stamps help, but only go so far. And often their families cannot afford even the small cost of lunch at school.

That’s where the federal government’s Nati...

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