Tipping. Everybody has an opinion about it, and nobody is completely happy with the practice.
Recently, plans to raise the minimum wage in California and New York to $15 have renewed the debate over eliminating gratuities. And some industry leaders are trying alternatives: Prominent New York restaurateurs Danny Meyer (Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, Blue Smoke) and Tom Colicchio (Craft) have drawn a lot of attention by banning tipping entirely in favor of a surcharge added onto the bill that is distributed equitably to the staff.
Chez Panisse, Alice Waters' legendary Berkeley, Calif., restaurant, has been adding a 17 percent surcharge to its checks since the late 1980s. The money reportedly is distributed among the staff as an enhancement to wages and benefits.
To tip or not to tip?
Last month, critically acclaimed local chef Noah Blom instituted a "hospitality included" program at his two restaurants, Arc and Restaurant Marin. Instead of a surcharge, though, the extra cost is built into the menu.
In some cases, that means a 20 percent hike in prices. Servers and bartenders, in turn, get higher wages-up to $25 an hour.
Blom said the menu sticker shock is scary for some customers. At Marin, a breakfast sandwich is $22, and refillable coffee is $7. "But it all comes to fruition when you get your bill: You sign, and you're done," he said.
Still, tip-free restaurants and bars across the country are rare. The National Restaurant Association sees no industry-wide trend.
"The move towards a nontipped environment is a new and somewhat small concept with only a handful of restaurants testing it nationwide," said association spokeswoman Christin Fernandez. "As the industry of hospitality, we've found the practice of tipping has traditionally attracted millions of employees to our industry and still has strong support from American diners."
Dann Bean, owner of Main Street Wine Co. in Huntington Beach, Calif., agreed.
"Our regular customers are especially generous to my employees and appreciate good, friendly service. I personally am a little turned off by business owners who have raised their prices to accommodate tips for their employees. I am a little old-fashioned and believe service will eventually suffer."