BRUNSWICK, Ga.-There may be no stronger hallmark of Southern culture than food.
Across economic classes, racial lines and neighborhoods, the Deep South loves its cuisine as much as its football. Sunday suppers traditionally bring together families and friends to share prayer, stories and ready for the week ahead. It's a time for community and togetherness, but in a time when families are more preoccupied and busier than ever, some traditions are changing.
Dave Snyder, a chef and owner of Halyard Restaurant Group on St. Simons Island, isn't afraid of those changing traditions-in fact, he's embraced them. He still holds fast to the significance of the custom, though.
"I think it's more and more important, especially as we become a more mobile society, to still have that family time," Synder said at his restaurant on Sept. 12. "On Sundays, I try to get together with friends if I'm not out fishing. I think Sunday supper is an important thing."
He shies away from the easier, cut-and-dry meals that so many families fix on a busy schedule, and even some of the most popular dishes at his restaurant.
"The last thing I want to eat is pizza, because that's what I see all week, and I don't want to see shrimp and grits, because that's what we do here all day," Snyder said.
He doesn't even go directly to the old Southern standards like fried chicken and collard greens. Instead, he said he looks for dishes that are a little outside the box, and can involve the whole family, or guests invited to supper.
"Stir fry is also aways a fun family meal because it does really well in the kitchen," Snyder said.
"People can hang out and help me cut all the vegetables, and it's fun to cook in front of everybody. It's a showy technique when you get the wok going. It's more of an activity."
Of course, no modern Southern household is complete without the smokey, charcoal-fueled tastes brought by the grill in autumn. Snyder said he thinks the grill can be an enjoyable activity for families and friends, just like stir fry.
"The other thing I like to do on Sundays, which is kind of a no brainer, is the grill," he said. "That's an activity, too. I can go out there with my friends, and the adults are drinking a beer around the grill-the kids are coming out and learning how to do it. I like having those hands-on activities."
As Snyder notes, though, not everyone has time to fix a full-fledged Sunday supper every week. Between football practice, church groups and social obligations, families can still gather around the kitchen table with meals that come pre-prepared and ready to eat, said Kristian Johnsen, a chef at St. Simons Island's Harris Teeter grocery store.
His deli counter sells a wide selection of Southern classics, Johnsen said, and by bringing ready-to-eat meals home, families can still enjoy that quality time without rushing or adding stress to their already hectic lives.
"I'll tell you, we sell a lot of fried chicken on Sundays," he said Monday leaning against the deli counter with a smile. "It's one of our most popular things for after church. I think a lot of people dig it. Then, they'll also go ahead and finish it off with Southern classics like mac 'n' cheese. We have a great mashed potato, or potato salad is always a great hit."
A native of New York City, Johnsen admits it took him some time to get used to Southern cooking, but he seems to have a handle on it. One of his favorite foods fits in so well with the Southern palate that it might be easy to mistake the Yankee for a Southerner-if it weren't for his accent. Like Snyder, he's a fan of the grill, but Johnsen takes a shine to barbecue.
"There's always a good deal," Johnsen said. "A lot of people go for the pulled pork, too. We also have a great brisket that people dig-or a pot roast, that's a big one that people go to. And don't forget the cole slaw."
For families that need quick and easy Sunday suppers, but still want Southern class and charm, adding the family china to the mix can add depth to the meal and nod to tradition, said Alexis Miller of Cunningham Jewelers in Brunswick.
"For a formal Sunday dinner, a typical place setting is five pieces," she explained at her shop on Monday. "A full formal dinner would have an appetizer, usually a salad or some sort of dish at the beginning, and bread and butter dish that sits beside your plate. The salad dish usually sits on top of the dinner plate, so when you take it away the dinner plate is right there."
Like every other tradition, though, even Sunday supper china is changing, Miller said.
"When our parents got married in the 60s, 70s, and even the 80s, you registered (for wedding gifts) and it was white with a gold rim on white or ivory china," she said. "Now, a lot of brides are either inheriting their family's china, or they say they don't want to be plain or boring, or what-not."