WASHINGTON-Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke, who oversees a whole lot of parkland around the nation, recently did the right thing by listening to some Native American leaders about how a Trump administration proposal might damage one of the most sacred cultural sites in the U.S.
Zinke postponed the sale of gas and oil leases in Chaco Canyon, the onetime historic seat of the Pueblos in northwest New Mexico. The operative word here is "postponed," not "canceled," which it should have been after tribal officials explained why. The proposal, covering 25 parcels over 4,454 acres, will come up again later in the month. If Zinke pays attention, he will slam the door on the impression that his boss' stance on conservation is entirely opposite to that GOP icon-President Theodore Roosevelt.
It was Roosevelt's protection under the Antiquities Act against development at Chaco that originally drove the national conservation movement. Zinke reigns over the National Park Service. Some of the region is controlled by the Bureau of Land Management in the Agriculture Department, which is not involved in the attempts to auction the leases near Chaco Cultural National Historical Park. The entire area is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The whole thing is part of a Trump plan to open a significant number of Western protected sites that have been important in tempering commercial development to preserve national treasures. Now that you have a minor view of what's being planned, I can tell you firsthand that it's not just a minor assessment of the potential loss. What is at stake here is a chance to walk back in time as in few other places.
What's up this morning, I asked her on one of our many jaunts around New Mexico, a place we both found fascinating and exciting in its variety. We were in Gallup and the morning was bright and just crisp enough for a light jacket. It would get hotter. She said she wanted to see Chaco Canyon. Not an easy trip, I replied. That she understood, she said, but there is an interesting way that may be a bit rugged but doable-that is, if you pay attention to me. Yeah, I retorted. How's that? Water, gas, snacks, she said.
So, off we went. After passing the third gas station/convenience store, she slammed her foot on the floor angrily and, stared at me and said don't pass another.
OK, OK, I said, adding they surely had water and gas and candy. Then I saw the turnoff. It was a one-lane, dirt that looked quite passable despite the large sign warning one to travel at his own risk. I glanced at the gas. It was not full but enough certainly to travel 20 miles or so. I turned off and ignored the outpouring of frustration. You should throw away all that New York Times "here's how to prepare," I said snarkily. Everything was all right.
For the first half-mile, that is. Then there was red dust everywhere and we were traveling in a 16th century Spanish cart being pulled by two oxen, bumping along at the outrages speed of 5 to 10 mph, dodging boulders, and holes and cattle guards. I'm thirsty, she said, pulling herself back on the seat after one precipitous trip down a hole and back up, sort of like a bucking bronco. Quicker than I could say "bitch," we both laughed.
Finally, we persevered. There it was: one of our oldest relics, but one that is probably more important than most where the Pueblos built big houses and ceremonial kivas in their perfect roundness and watched the stars from astronomical viewing sites. These people were as creative as anyone and their artistic understanding coupled with their ingenuity was remarkable. Were the sore back and butt we both experienced afterward worth it? You bet, even without water, candy, and gas. The main road didn't take long to satisfy our needs. But the high adventure was that prehistoric road and knowing who had traveled it before us over the years.
Sometime before we decided to visit it, I had casually bought a decent original painting of the place done by a noted regional artist from a Santa Fe art studio. Its title was, "Who Could Have Built This."
Indeed! We should be careful here.